Rome

This classically romantic city is rich in fabulous food and cultural offerings.

• By Tara Mandy
• Published Summer 2006

One could argue that rome is best explored without an itinerary. (A relief after months of planning, planning, planning.) You won't need detailed maps to find the city's ancient marvels; you'll drive by the Coliseum without even trying. Your most memorable meal will likely be at some trattoria you discover after strolling one of the piazzas. In much the same way, your most intimate honeymoon moments will find you-as you cross one of the Tiber bridges at night or share a bottle of wine at a little outdoor café. Plan to spend at least four days to truly understand what Fellini meant by La Dolce Vita.

MOST ROMANTIC HOTEL ROOMS:

Located a short walk from the Spanish Steps, the Hotel de Russie is stylish, yet comfortable-and wonderfully romantic. There's a lovely courtyard that leads directly up the hills to the famed Villa Borghese's gardens. Alternatively, the city's best views are from the Hotel Hassler, a somewhat stuffy classic atop the Spanish Steps whose Presidential Penthouse Suite tops 3,000 euros a night.

SITE WORTH THE WAIT:

Arrive at the Vatican on a weekday, at least 30 minutes prior to opening time in order to beat the crowds and make a beeline to the Sistine Chapel. You have to walk through the entire Vatican Museum to get there; most people saunter slowly down the halls, looking at the art along the way. It's worth rushing to be alone-or nearly alone-and able to take in Michelangelo's masterpiece in silence.

SPECIAL SHOPS:

Madison Avenue-worthy boutiques line the streets that spread west from the Piazza di Spagna: Via della Croce, Via Condotti, Via Borgognona, Via dei Fiori, and Via Bocca di Leone. For funkier finds, try T.A.D. (Rome's answer to Collette),Verso Sud (Paul Smith and other mod brands), and the Butcher (cool streetwear from Pharmacy and Boxfresh). There are excellent hats-Panamas, fedoras-at Troncarelli and beautifully packaged chocolates at Quetzalcoatl. Cheeses, olive oils, and balsamics can be found at Roscioli, a small Zabar's-like store with a charming wine bar.

COOL ENOTECAS AND BARS:

: Rome's wine bars are the traditional prelude to dinner. Try the chic, small Ferrara, the very Roman Il Goccetto (go early), or Vinoteca Novecento, with outdoor seating and flattering torchlight. After dinner, trendy types hit newer bars like Crudo and Coco, which are very New York in feel.

TOP TRATTORIAS:

If you want a fancy meal, it's tough to beat Agata e Romeo. But locals prefer the fresh ingredients and casual atmosphere of their neighborhood trattorias. At Trastevere's Specialita Abbruzzesi, the son explains the specials while Mamma yells from the kitchen and Papà sips grappa in the corner. Another excellent choice is Agustarello (the one in Testaccio, not the one in Trastevere). Try the cacio e pepe (spaghetti with cracked pepper and grated Pecorino Romano) or their specialty: cicoria e pecorino (pasta with cheese and spinach).

GREAT TICKETS:

The Teatro dell'Opera isn't La Scala. Far from it. But the raw emotion of the players-as well as the audience members-gets at the heart of the Italian people. Get the cheap, wooden seats way up in "the sparrows' roost," and expect to hear old men weeping.

BEST GELATO:

Order at least two flavors from San Crispino, then walk to Trevi Fountain and toss in a coin; tradition dictates that this ensures your return to Rome someday.

BEST COFFEE:

La Casa del Caffe Tazza d'Oro is heralded by half of Rome. The other half swears by Sant'Eustachio, where the secret coffee-making process is hidden from view.

BEST SLICE:

The thin-crust pizzas at Panattoni, (a.k.a. Obitorio, or "The Morgue," for its long white-marble tabletops) are very popular with the late-night crowd, but don't leave Rome without sampling the brick-oven pies from Pizzeria da Baffetto.

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When to go
It's best to avoid visiting Rome in August, as most shops and restaurants are closed to accommodate their owners' summer vacation schedules. Late fall is rainy; winter can be chilly. Late spring and early summer are ideal.

Details
Hotel de Russie (39-06-32-88-81) Hotel Hassler (39-06-69-93-40) Agata e Romeo (39-06-44-66-115) Specialita Abbruzzesi (39-06-58-12-393) Agustarello (39-06-57-46-585 ) Teatro dell'Opera(39-06-48-16-01) Panattoni (39-06-54-17-305) Pizzeria da Baffetto (39-06-68-61-617) Il Goccetto (39-06-68-64-268).

What to pack
Roman fashion is decidedly chic, but at the same time, it's more casual than New York (jackets for men are rarely required). You'll be traversing rickety cobblestone streets, so think twice before packing any skinny heels.