Crazier Than Croquembouche

• By Katie Goldsmith
• Published Winter 2008

MINI ANGEL FOOD CAKES
By Nancy Olson of Gramercy Tavern
(Cakes over cookie bases, with elderflower glaze and lime-infused whipped cream, filled with strawberry jam, garnished with sugared impatiens, purple basil, and mint leaves; $15 per serving).
Our Verdict: “Pretty, flavorful, and the fresh strawberry compote is tangy. But angel food cake has that spongy-rubbery consistency that resists slicing, so mingling while eating—plate in one hand, fork in the other—will be awkward.”