Ichimura at Uchū

After wandering in the proverbial desert for a short time following the unfortunate blow-up of his eponymous project down in Tribeca, one of the city’s great masters of the edomae style has found a properly palatial home at this discreet, big-money tasting-room complex on Eldridge Street. With its flattering lighting, wide pine-wood bar, and soft, red leather chairs, the little room is surpassingly stylish, and the same goes for Ichimura himself, who doles out his impeccable omakase menu nattily dressed in a traditional Japanese yukata. If there were a slightly less expensive way to get a taste of the plump, shiny scallops, or the delicately cross-hatched ika, or the multitude of toro variations (we counted four different kinds), this posh little establishment might be at the top of the list, but if you have $300 in your pocket (before tax, tip, and the invariable carafes of sake), we suggest you run, don’t walk, down to Eldridge Street.