MOST RECENT ARTICLES BY:

Gael Greene

  1. How far wil Jean-George’s empire stretch?Hong Kong, Texas, and now the Village. Here’s where the restless globe-hopper lives, and his brand-new Perry Street does “pantry service” in one […]
  2. What’s New in Nouvelle Chinese?The very name, Mainland, hints of homage to the past, but chef-partner Brian Young isn’t bound to tradition.
  3. What’s Worth the Hamptons Hassle?Who cares how authentic it is when crispy flautas with avocado crème fraîche and chicken mole poblano are that good?
  4. Where Are All the Pretty People?Once word gets out how good chef Chris Santos’s small sharing plates can be, the darling brats may be shouldered aside by determined foodies.
  5. Omakase is my Middle Name.The parade of sensuous sushi, each sliver of fish hiding a heady wasabi charge, provokes uninhibited ummms of shocked pleasure.
  6. Is There a New Las Vegas? Do I Care?This, I’m told, is a new X-rated Las Vegas of strip joints, burlesque, topless Cirque du Soleil. I’m too busy eating at the just-hatched Wynn […]
  7. Can’t You Stay Away from Clinton Street?Notoriously tight, I’m reluctant to invest $32 round-trip cab fare to this punky and uncertain Restaurant Row. But I’m instantly disarmed by the […]
  8. Sicily, ItalyInnovative tasting menus, legendary pastries, and perfect pasta.
  9. Another New Barbecue Joint? Is It the Real Deal?Out came jerk-rubbed and smoky chicken wings with a pineapple dip that rocked even the Venetian countess.
  10. I thought it was Tuscan—Now it’s English?Given chef-partner Todd English’s heritage, it’s now sophisticated (Todd) Calabrian (his grandparents) with a little Bronx (Mom), tossed in fo […]
  11. Where Would You Go to Goof Off a Little?Unlike the typical Chino-Latino hash on upper Broadway, Asia de Cuba mixes up a Tower of Babel in every dish.
  12. Tell Me a Thai Place That’s Worth the TripIf you’re not immutably fixated on the authentic, join me trundling down to the East Village for the savvy Indonesian refinements of Taweewat Hurapan.
  13. I’m in the Mood for Greens and Crunch.Chef Larry Forgione likes the idea of braving a department store. That’s where we discover the stylish elegance and crunch of slaw-style salads […]
  14. The Windows on the World Guys? At Guastavinos?Windows on the World veterans—owner David Emil and chef Michael Lomonaco—have signed on to elevate the pleasure quotient in Sir Terence Conran’s […]
  15. I’m Dreaming of Summer in Kennebunkport.Latch onto the glorified lobster shack launched as phase one of BLT Fish—the latest love child of Laurent Tourondel’s crush on American cooking.
  16. Compass Yet Again? Can I Trust You?Chefs and pâtissiers come and go, soar and crash, at Compass, where desperate powers that be struggle to get it right.
  17. Do We Really Need Yet Another Italian Restaurant?If it’s good, I say, let’s mangia. And Lo Scalco, with its minimalist Baroque setting—high arched ceiling, white ceramic chandeliers, and minion […]
  18. After Rocco, What? And Should We Care?Numbing and mysterious Brazilian tricks tumbling out of the kitchen at Caviar & Banana Brasserio have swiftly exorcised the ghost of the house t […]
  19. Why on Earth Call Your Place Porcupine?The small armored critter you and I fear strikes chef Matthew Weingarten as wild but cuddly—“rustic, like my food.”
  20. Sushi Became the New Luxury Fetish.$350! The best raw fish, at any price.
  21. Should I Break Open the Piggy Bank to Celebrate Chanterelle’s 25th Year?Chanterelle is the same unique grand drama of fine dining in the desolate blackness of unexploited Soho 25 years ago.
  22. Is There a Dining Imperative On Your List?Only a few weeks remain to say adieu to Le Cirque 2000 before it expires forever with a black-tie New Year’s Eve bang.
  23. What in the World Is New York Cuisine?Chef Kevin Reilly’s affection for Katz’s Deli and departed German bistros colors his sanely measured homage to New York ethnic eats at the Sil […]
  24. With Rocco out, why go to Union Pacific?Rocco fans’ loss is catnip for devotees of Laurent Tourondel. BLT Steak’s master toque has moved his team into DiSpirito’s abandoned kitchen, […]
  25. ChocolateIt can make you feel warm all over, like being hugged or tucked into bed. It can be as homey as toffee crunch bark or chocolate pecan turtles. A […]
  26. I want a little dinner. A great little dinner. Where to?It’s not just the intimacy of the narrow space, the staccato of recumbent bottles, or the undercounter light that falls indiscreetly on your thi […]
  27. Eat, MemoryWhen I think of Marcella Hazan, the diva of Italian home cooking, I think how stubborn she is, how confident of her mission, how cranky she can […]
  28. Hanoi, VietnamCrispy crab rolls, chicken-bone soup, and other tastes of the East.
  29. Small PlatesAppetizers are the new entrées, with cichetti, meze, tapas, and other delectable (and affordable) little bites popping up on menus all ov […]
  30. Paris ReviewYou’ve already done the museum-and-monument marathon. On your next trip to Paris, rent an apartment, and give yourself time to stop and sm […]
  31. David Keh, RestaurateurRemembering New York’s Szechuan star.
  32. Gettin’ FreshLarry Forgione and the homegrown revolt against the tyranny of french cuisine.
  33. Cooking Up A StormFrom foie gras explosions to chocolate eruptions, 13 restaurant revolutions.
  34. The Taste RaceSuperstardom isn’t always conducive to great cooking. luckily, an unsung Cadre of talent is watching the stove.
  35. Chef PowerWho dazzles, who counts, who makes us tremble, and who was who in our town’s best kitchens.
  36. The Ice Cream ComethAfter 32 years of slurping and licking, the author reflects on a lifelong passion and sets out to uncover the city’s best frozen assets.
  37. The Hot ListAlain Ducasse at the Essex House155 West 58th Street212-265-7300
  38. Eating Las VegasCan a finicky gourmand who hates to gamble and can’t stand crowds possibly find happiness in the loudest, craziest, most garish city in America? […]
  39. High SteaksAmong four new strip joints on the Strip, just one clear winner. Muriel Stevens, diva of Vegas restaurant critics, proves her chops by joining […]
  40. Gold-Plate SpecialAt his sky-high-priced new restaurant, Alain Ducasse is redefining the term “value meal.” But are these really the best frogs’ legs money can buy?
  41. Hamptons 2000 / Ask Gael: Hamptons EditionArmed with notebook – and large, floppy hat – the Insatiable Critic devours the South Fork.
  42. Deep KnishChopped-liver king Shelly Fireman decides to add a touch of sensuous finesse to his earthy repertoire; Larry Forgione brings a touch of class to […]
  43. AZ You Like ItChef Patricia Yeo’s gorgeous and gutsy global shenanigans bring new luster to 17th Street; Revel seems a bit greedy, even for the Upper East Side.
  44. Vine ConnoisseurChef John Tesar’s Wall Street gamble looks like it will pay dividends.
  45. CommuneMatthew Kenney’s Commune may be scalded by its own heat.
  46. Make a FishWith seafood-friendly Esca, Molto Mario and Joe B. have extended their winning streak to four; at Avra, too, there’s gold in them thar gills.
  47. The First FoodieGael Greene remembers Craig Claiborne.
  48. One Man’s FritesWe’ll always have Paris, as long as Keith McNally keeps obsessively re-creating his dream French bistro, true to the last faux nicotine stain.
  49. Where to Eat in 2000In the event of computer dementia, we may be eating chops seared on a wood-burning barbecue by candlelight for a while, tallying the check by ba […]
  50. Gael Greene’s Where to Eat in 2000In the event of computer dementia, we may be eating chops seared on a wood-burning barbecue by candlelight for a while, tallying the check by ba […]
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