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The Greatest Things in Sliced Bread

The best of the booming sandwich category.

  • Turkey

  • Henry Public

    329 Henry St., nr. Pacific St., Cobble Hill; 718-852-8630

    A turkey sandwich that could reverse centuries of turkey-sandwich bashing: milk-braised leg meat with crispy fried onions on juice-sopping slices of toasted Pullman.

  • Vegetarian

  • Saltie

    378 Metropolitan Ave., nr. Havemeyer St., Williamsburg; 718-387-4777

    Beets, radishes, a hard-boiled egg, butternut squash, feta, black olives, capers, pickled onions, parsley, and spicy aïoli on focaccia, the so-called Scuttlebutt is a sprawling kitchen-sink sandwich designed for the vegetarian whose appetite yields to no one, gluttonous carnivores included.

  • Chicken Parm

  • Torrisi Italian Specialties

    250 Mulberry St., nr. Prince St.; 212-965-0955

    It comes in two sizes; the smaller is as relatively tidy and well constructed as a cucumber sandwich, which in the messy world of chicken parms is a neat trick.

  • Meat Loaf

  • Rye

    247 S. 1st St., nr. Roebling St., Williamsburg; 718-218-8047.

    Cal Elliott uses a gourmet mash of ground veal, pork, short rib, and duck to construct this two-fisted monster. Factor in the fresh toasted roll, the frisée and horseradish sauce, and the crunchy topping of frizzled onions, and you have the mother of all meat-loaf sandwiches.

  • Muffuletta

  • Fort Defiance

    365 Van Brunt St., at Dikeman St., Red Hook; 347-453-6672

    The only way to get a more authentic muffuletta in this town is to have it FedExed from Central Grocery in New Orleans—which is exactly what owner St. John Frizell did in order to learn from the master.

  • Roast Beef

  • This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef

    149 First Ave., nr. 9th St. 212-253-1500

    Team Artichoke’s take on the Italian roast-beef-mozzarella-and-gravy hero (known here as a “That Way”), is pretty much perfect: juicy but not soggy, with a good crisped-up roll that makes all the difference.

  • Bacon, Egg & Lettuce

  • Bklyn Larder

    228 Flatbush Ave., nr. Bergen St., Park Slope; 718-783-1250

    An off-season BLT (BLE?) for locavores incorporates a golden-yolked hard-boiled egg; thick, smoky bacon; and crisp escarole on mayo-slathered Pullman toast for the ideal contrast of texture and temperature.

  • Tongue

  • The Breslin

    16 W. 29th St., nr. Broadway; 212-679-1939

    April Bloomfield makes her version of this grizzled old deli favorite with braised beef tongue squeezed between slices of toasty baguette. The key is the lightly frothy horseradish sauce, which gives the whole ensemble an elegant gourmet touch.

From the 2010 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine