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Doing the Earl Proud

Stars of the sandwich scene.

Minetta Tavern's French dip.  
  • French Dip

  • Minetta Tavern

    113 Macdougal St., at Minetta Ln.; 212-475-3850

    Los Angeles may have invented it, but New York has perfected it. Lunch only.

  • Horseradish Sandwich

  • 606 R&D

    606 Vanderbilt Ave., nr. St. Marks Ave., Prospect Heights; 718-230-0125

    It’s not just a condiment anymore. Ilene Rosen gives the ancient root a star turn on Grandaisy Pullman with butter and red onion. Even optional Benton’s bacon gets second billing.

  • Goat Face Sandwich

  • Goat Town

    511 E. 5th St., nr. Ave. A; 212-687-3641

    House-smoked goat on Texas toast by way of the neighborhood Japanese bakery. It’s Julie E. Farias’s deliriously good tribute to the Lone Star State’s butcher-paper barbecue joints. Mondays only.

  • Saratoga Club

  • Parm

    248 Mulberry St., nr. Prince St.; 212-993-7189

    The triple decker gets the Torrisi Boys treatment. The key is what they call “zesty mayo”—good housemade stuff mingled with the kind of herbs and spices you might associate with a bottle of Wish Bone Italian.

  • Croque Monsieur

  • La Promenade des Anglais

    461 W. 23rd St., nr. Tenth Ave.; 212-255-7400

    Alain Allegretti’s clever, New Age take combines all the elements of the old classic (béchamel, melted Gruyère, ham) twirled together like a modern-day wrap.

  • Fried-Chicken Sandwich

  • Smith Canteen

    343 Smith St., at Carroll St., Carroll Gardens; no phone

    Crispy thigh meat, a buttermilk dressing, and iceberg lettuce on a Martin’s potato bun—it’s better than Chick-fil-A, and that’s a compliment.

From the 2012 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine