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Best Oysters

  • M. Wells Dinette

    At MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave., at 46th Ave., Long Island City; 718-786-1800

    If some of the dishes at the always inventive M. Wells Dinette seem so fantastical that they could have been conjured from a dream, well, some of them have. Take, for instance, the new oysters Bolognese ($8), which came to chef Hugue Dufour in a vision one night. The next day, still craving those elusive figments of his imagination, he went to work creating them—first spooning a meaty pork-and-beef sauce over some oysters, then dabbing them with a persillade puréed with bread crumbs and briefly baking them in the oven. The result is deliciously rich and briny—the physical manifestation of what clams oreganata can only dream of becoming.

From the 2013 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine