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Ramen Gets Even Hotter

From classic to creative, some of the best new noodle soups in town.

Illustration by Rami Niemi  
  • Stamina Ramen:

  • Ganso

    25 Bond St., nr. Livingston St., Downtown Brooklyn; 718-403-0900

    Ryuji Irie packs his soup with fermented broad-bean paste, chiles, tiny shrimp, and the fragrant garlic chives known as nira. It’s festooned with chicken chashu and shots of schmaltz and chile oil rich and potent enough to see you through winter, and well into spring ($14).

  • Spicy Tonkotsu:

  • Jin Ramen

    3183 Broadway, nr. Tiemann Pl.; 646-559-2862

    Soba master Shuichi Kotani oversees production of this Harlem ramen-ya’s straight and thin noodles. No extra fat is added to the pork-bone broth, yielding a less creamy soup with a very distinct flavor. It’s boosted by the house mayu, a spicy paste made from chiles, miso, and roasted garlic ($12).

  • Miso Ramen:

  • Ramen Yebisu

    126 N. 6th St., nr. Berry St., Williamsburg; no phone

    Akira Hiratsuka ages his fresh Sapporo-style noodles for 48 hours to develop their slightly tangy flavor. He complements them with an elegant broth based on charred pork and lobster stock, sweet miso, toasted sesame, and an avalanche of chopped green onions ($12).

  • Mushroom Ramen:

  • Dassara

    271 Smith St., nr. Degraw St., Carroll Gardens; 718-643-0781

    The noodles are fine and chewy, but the show at Smith Street’s upstart ramen-ya is stolen by a dark, soulful broth fortified with mushrooms like porcini, hen of the woods, and enoki. Fried nori, seasonal greens, and a poached egg make up the supporting cast ($12).

  • Korean Spicy Ramyun:

  • Hanjan

    36 W. 26th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-206-7226

    Hooni Kim modeled this twelve-hour broth of chicken, fish, and pork on Korea’s best-selling brand of instant soup. The red, pepper-flecked liquid arrives with a tangle of bean sprouts, an ultrafresh egg, and soft pork slices. Plan accordingly: It’s served only after 10 p.m. ($16).

From the 2013 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine