Best of New York 2014 • Eating

• M. Wells Steakhouse

  43-15 Crescent St., Long Island City; 718-786-9060

  The first thing you notice about Hugue Dufour’s impressive roast chicken is its size. This isn’t really a chicken for two at all—it’s a whole roasted bird for five or six. The next things you notice are the crackly golden-­brown skin and the perfectly tender meat, which falls away when you tweak it with your fork. This is roast chicken in its most elemental, satisfying form, and it only gets better as you work your way down to the jumble of potatoes and assorted crispy bits, all mingled together at the bottom of the plate.

From the 2014 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine