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Best Duck

  • Cosme

    35 E. 21st St., nr. Broadway; 212-913-9659

    Enrique Olvera calls this magisterial creation duck carnitas, but don’t let the carnitas part fool you. It’s more or less a half-duck, which Olvera’s crew cures in a mix of things (evaporated milk, carrots, Mexican Coke, etc.) designed to enhance the bird’s natural fatty sweetness. After curing, the duck is braised, and after the braise, it’s finished in the oven before being hoisted to the table in a sizzling cast-iron pan. The result is a duck for the ages, one that combines the ethereal pleasures of Peking duck with the simpler joys of a messy, freshly made taco.

From the 2015 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine