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Review Cheat Sheet

Collective wisdom about the Spring 2007 New York shows.

A

à la disposition

ZOOZOOM

Every look had one strong idea: the combination of colors though unconventional was always vividly satisfying.

Abaete

Fashion Wire Daily

While the collection does have a certain luxurious feel, all the pieces are entirely wearable and perfect for quotidian life in the city.

Adam + Eve

Style

The clothes looked smart. Inspired by the rich fabrics and photographs from a long-ago trip to Kenya, Lippes balanced an organic, natural element—with obvious African roots—with his all-American sensibility.

Akiko Ogawa

  • Bio
  • Collection
Papierblog

Akiko Ogawa took the classic styles of some of our favorite icons and updated them for modern times.

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Fashion Wire Daily

This collection by Alexandre Herchcovitch felt as it were designed for a bunch of bus conductors, albeit stewards in a rather charming coach.

Omiru

Lots of color, lots of wackiness, and whole lotta attitude at Alexandre Herchcovitch.

ZOOZOOM

Herchcovitch’s political undertones brought together ideas that seemed worlds apart.

Alfred Fiandaca

No Reviews Posted Yet.

Alice Roi

New York Times

An urban toughness that feels authentic, Alice Roi's clothes have something that sets her apart.

Style

Roi fans can expect more emphasis on bold looks rather than the usual frill and girly prettiness.

ZOOZOOM

Roi is able to please the beautiful young sassy rich, and those who would never use the words "cc me on that."

Anna Sui

Style

The New York Dolls. Marie Antoinette. Suleiman the Magnificent. Leave it to Anna Sui to take these wildly divergent influences and come up with something that not only holds together, but also jibes with the season's key trends.

Atil Kutoglu

The London Telegraph

The designer continues his exploration along the historic ethnic trail.

Fashion Wire Daily

The designer's solid spring collection has wet the fashion industry's appetite for spring.

ZOOZOOM

Atil Kutoglu wins with well-crafted classics in "Turquality."

B

Baby Phat

Fashion Wire Daily

With hip-hop dominating pop culture trends, the Baby Phat group will continue to govern the retail world with its Spring 07 teen-friendly collection of logo denims and micro-shorts.

LATimes

You'd think the clothes would have been as kooky as the scene, but they weren't. Cute denim shorts with sexy tops, a cozy sweater jacket, a sizzling satin evening gown with basket-weave detailing, hip trench coats and elegant safari-inspired suits — all marketable, wearable and cool.

WWD

Among the glam fest, there was some real merch that could walk off the runway and into reality.

ZOOZOOM

Baby Phat's "Brazilian Rainforest" themed collection was right on target for women who love to show off their bling.

BCBG

Fashion Wire Daily

Think frock fantastic with a mix of silhouettes — slip, drop waist, cowl back or off-the-shoulder. Many looked delicate and dainty and his models looked easy and cool.

ABC News

Although this is a collection that always skews young, some looks would be hard for anyone of voting age to pull off, particularly the bubble baby-doll dresses and supershort rompers.

Behnaz Sarafpour

Style

Sarafpour sent out a collection of graphic shapes, done in black and white. There were shifts and chemises and also a capelet silhouette that worked best with abbreviated volumes below the waist.

Benjamin Cho

New York Times

After a break of several seasons from the runway, Benjamin Cho seemed to ask himself what fashion needed, and the answer was something strong and energetic.

Paper

He wowed us with his craftsmanship once again.

Betsey Johnson

Bagtrends

The show was youthful, fun and very Betsey.

Bill Blass

Fashion Wire Daily

He simply wanted to remind his audience that Bill Blass is about simplicity and clean lines, a combination that never goes out of style, no matter one's age.

Papierblog

As usual, the Blass collection offers some fun pieces to appeal to the young socialite, but keeps true to their customer.

Style

Not only were the spring clothes eminently wearable—for both the loyal customer and a younger one—but they also respected the tradition of the house.

Brian Reyes

Fashion Wire Daily

Brian Reyes's plays in volume and proportion remained elegant and wearable.

C

Camilla Stærk

  • Bio
  • Collection
Fashion Wire Daily

This full debut US collection summed up Staerk’s strength, credible clothes with a soupcon of attitude.

Style

More romantic than usual, the new collection diverged from her preferred black to incorporate pastels…With this collection, she succeeded in updating her body-conscious aesthetic and bringing it to a wider audience

Carlos Miele

Style

Save for a few shorts and bikinis, it was a parade of sexy, bias-cut chiffon dresses, mostly in bright colors or prints, often embroidered with crystal details, but with little, other than length, to distinguish one from the next.

Carolina Herrera

British Vogue

…the fanfare of pretty dresses that were paraded down the catwalk had all the hallmarks of a designer who knows her audience, her style, and delights in both.

Fashion Wire Daily

All poise and polish at Carolina Herrera.

International Herald Tribune

Now that girly looks and Paris Hilton pink seem like yesterday's trend, Herrera’s womanly clothes, juiced with blood orange, were right on target.

Lookonline.com

The collection made a case for a new ease and more subtle, unforced glamour.

Style
For spring, Carolina Herrera jettisoned the fifties inspirations that threatened to weigh down her fall collection….Realism was the order of the day, served with a smattering of couturelike touches.

WWD

It was when Herrera took a breather from such obvious statement-making in favor of sultry blush gowns or a stark pindot shirtdress that the collection oozed confident élan, much like the designer herself.

Charlotte Ronson

Fashion Wire Daily

Still cute but more sexy.

Cloak

Fashion Wire Daily

Novel in construction, relevant in attitude, the clothes had that rarer ability to work for downtown guys who want to dress up and Uptown gents who want to look edgy.

Men’s Style

One thing you could most definitely say about Plokhov’s new collection is that it was focused.

Costello Tagliapietra

Fashion Wire Daily

Soft glamour prevailed at Costello Tagliapietra.

Papierblog

This season the dresses fell along the body with grace.

Cynthia Steffe

WWD (paid subscription)

And she worked it all to a charming effect with those signature embroidered dresses, as well as eyelet blouses paired with little gingham shorts.

D

Derek Lam

Lookonline

Easy, unforced, yet polished, many of the highly wearable pieces translated into gutsy fabrics.

Style

Working a masculine-feminine theme, Lam showed loose-fitting tanks as well as a dress in suit lining fabric inset with lace and piped in black. He also elevated madras chemises and pajama pants by trimming them in silk. If it all sounds a little sexless, it wasn't.

Diane von Furstenberg

International Herald Tribune

The streamlined clothes were set off by angular hair cuts and bright lips, giving glamour to the new volumes.

New York Times

Ms.Von Frustenberg displayed finess with shapely plaid miniskirts and loose girlish tops. Tunic dresses with wide straps were a fresh take on minimalist summer dressing...

Paper

The Princess (a title is, after all, forever) has seemingly done the impossible: maintaining her jet-set cred while building a huge global fashion empire.

Style

Diane von Furstenberg's "All About Eve" show could have easily been titled "All About Evolution."

Telegraph

Overall, the look was loose but proportioned so it was flattering.

British Vogue

Though Diane von Furstenberg's silhouette was roomier, it still had plenty of the slick, sexy attitude which has given her label its powerful, sensual reputation.

WWD

Beyond the fun and evocative theme, Von Furstenberg's main focus was making a slew of great clothes for young and not-so-young women to wear.

DKNY

AP

The palette ranged from deep purple to mustard yellow, also signaling that Karan watches the people in this city — they're not big on pastels, even in the springtime.

The Interational Herald Tribune

Celebrated New York in its diversity of style, including sections in her DKNY line for city sport, urban work and culture. It added up to a focus on the dress and on full skirts that twirled in layers of color for an artistic effect.

The London Telegraph

Donna Karan was in a funky, sporty urban mood for her younger line….The show also introduced a great new line in footwear – the trainer-wedge, in bright coloured snakeskin and patent.

Men’s Style

Like the women's half of the collection, the clothes combined classic and sport details but the menswear was much quieter in mood.

WWD (paid subscription)

The result: a smart, pulled-together lineup that lives up to the urban chic the label has come to represent, while still reflecting the city’s swagger.

Duckie Brown

Fashion Wire Daily

Duckie Brown continues to play with proportion and besides the big shirt, there's the big pant. Think of drawstring scrubs that have been yoga-ized.

Men’s Style

Given the wackiness that used to distinguish their presentations, it seemed unlikely that Steven Cox and Daniel Silver would turn their label Duckie Brown into such an assured poke in the eye of mainstream American menswear. And yet that’s where they’ve been heading.

E

Ellen Tracy

WWD (paid subscription)

George Collin Sharp's effort will no doubt please company heads, who recently mandated that the brand retreat into safer territory.

G

Gen Art

Fashion Wire Daily

The runway show itself featured a few "what were they thinking moments," but all was redeemed by a trio of womenswear designers with strong, unique points of view.

Gottex

The London Telegraph

Gottex showed bikinis and one-pieces for every occasion, from a dip in the ocean to a trip up the aisle.

Fashion Wire Daily

Gottex truly captured the many aspects of a woman's spirit—in a swimsuit.

H

Heatherette

New York Post

Hugely wearable, it was a turning point for the fledgling fashion house. It was history in the making.

I

Imitation of Christ

International Herald Tribune

The streamlined clothes were set off by angular hair cuts and bright lips, giving glamour to the new volumes.

New York Post

Let's just call this a "bunch of clothes" (culled from the rails at the Salvation Army like so many designers do these days) that were hurled down the runway on the backs of some East Village types…It was mostly Japanese-inspired prints in grunge silhouettes, some obi belts and a handful of Steven Seagal-esque misuses of actual kimonos.

ZOOZOOM

Imitation’s looks may not be for everyone; Subkoff takes risks and for that we applaud her.

J

Jenni Kayne

Omiru

Mixes volume with the barely-there.

Style

It was long on short shorts, cardigans, and brief little dresses that don't work any place but the beach.

Jill Stuart

Style

The women's clothes were built around corsetry, boning and structure. This was a move in the right direction, as it took the designer away from her overfamiliar vintage vibe.

WWD (paid subscription)

Naughty or nice? You can have both at Jill Stuart, along with men's wear, too, which she showed for the first time.

John Bartlett

Almostgirl

The clean lines and gray color scheme that is sure to pervade all of Spring was certainly in evidence.

Coutorture

The brighter side of the Hamptons Gentleman – strategically placed lines and very soft characterstics that still stay masculine.

Fashion Wire Daily

The former Perry Ellis award winning designer is clearly the beacon of prep in the dressy-to-casual world of menswear.

Men’s Style

John Bartlett’s ongoing celebration of all things male took a turn for the patrician this season with a collection that was as scrupulously neat as a new uniform.

John Varvatos

Fashion Wire Daily

[It's] a brilliantly beat-up John Varvatos collection for spring that deconstructed garments and put them back together…Varvatos really knows what men ideally want in clothing— quality, forward-looking fashion that looks like its been lived in.

Men’s Style

A composite image of a chic hobo, someone not a million miles away from Varvatos’s current poster boy, the worn rock-warrior Iggy Pop.

Jovovich Hawk

International Herald Tribune

Nightgown dresses, crisp cottons and rose-garden patterns and delicate lacy edging gave the collection a sunny charm.

The London Telegraph

Jovovich-Hawk line has quickly made its name as a cute, hippie-boho fusion and this collection was no exception.

Style

Touching on everything from Victorian white work to thirties glamour to disco dash, the inspirations came a little too thick and fast. The show, which featured a soundtrack of punk covers by Nouvelle Vague, hit some of the right notes, but Jovovich-Hawk haven't yet made the song their own.

British Vogue

Spring/summer 2007 has taken on an even stronger vintage mood with washed-out chiffon floral dresses sweeping the floor, babydoll tunics tied up over wide-legged jeans and girlish pink satin mini dresses.

K

Kai Kuhne

Paper

Nothing too outrageous here, just sleek, highly wearable evening wear.

ZOOZOOM

Kai’s garments seem to exist in a timeless place, a place of invention, low inhibition, and Kai Kuhne Himself.

Karen Walker

New York Times

A natural sense of femininity that beats a lot of better-known labels, Ms. Walker's collection did not shrink on creativity.

Style

Walker's capable hands created a collection based on the fashion cliché of a woman in her boyfriend's clothes in a fresh and slightly subversive way.

Fashion Wire Daily

Saturday, September 9th marked her New York runway debut - but her effortlessly cool, street- and menswear influenced style lost nothing in translation.

British Vogue

The clothes were simple but interesting - a perfect hook for those New Yorkers unfamiliar with the Walker signature.

L

Lacoste

The London Telegraph

While sporty, the pieces had an edge of Riviera glam which transcended the court.

Fashion Wire Daily

Lacoste mixed the country club elegance of the thirties with a spin on the nightclub scene of the eighties.

Men’s Style

But for all the color, there was an oddly buttoned-down quality to the collection, possibly because the Big Idea was everything matching.

Lela Rose

British Vogue

…amongst all the different shapes there's a style to suit every taste and every figure—as long as you like dresses…

Style

There wasn't a hard edge in the house, nor has Rose radically altered her aesthetic during her absence from the catwalk, but that suits her well-connected customers and front-row pals just fine.

WWD

Lela Rose demonstrated her ethos of easy elegance into a pretty parade with nary a misstep.

Fashion Wire Daily

Most of the dresses had an easy, body-skimming tent silhouette - just the thing for those warm weather charity lunches or cocktails in Connecticut.

WWD (paid subscription)

…Luca Orlandi delivered a black-and-white confection of girly frocks that showed improvement over last season's offerings.

Luca Luca

British Vogue

The Luca Luca girl is still sitting pretty, even if Orlandi has injected a bit more direction than normal into the proceedings.

Style

[Clothes] were mostly rendered in neat volumes and graphic white and black….Label loyalists looking for important evening looks will be disappointed, but you can't fault the man for trying to stretch his wings.

Luella Bartley

Fashion Wire Daily

Got to hand it to the UK’s Luella Bartley, this gal keeps getting better and better...

International Herald Tribune

Her fashion mood was mod, with 1960s graphic shapes, black-and- white patterns and a feel for geometry, fresh and brisk for today.

New York Times

Alphabet prints and disco dresses made of broken shards of mirrors were pointed references to the fluxus art movement of visual poetry—awfully deep thoughts for lovelorn teenagers hoping to find a date for prom.

Style

Bartley's gone mod and, in a surprise move for a designer who helped invent the charm-laden handbag, almost minimal.

British Vogue

This Vogue writer-turned-designer has a knack of leading the most fashionable of the fashion pack though whatever mood has taken her.

WWD (paid subscription)

If these are the geeks who will rule the world, sign us up.

M

Malo

Fashion Wire Daily

The looks were a bit of stretch, and some editors left the show muttering where had all the cashmere gone.

Style

Aquilano and Rimondi are clearly trying to make a mark, but let's hope they don't forget the essentials—like the cozy luxe of cashmere—in the rush to modernize.

Marc Bouwer

Fashion Wire Daily

Bouwer's strong point as a designer is that he clearly has a knack for cutting a garment to fit a woman, and his use of color is fun and fearless.

ZOOZOOM

Sixties prints dominated the Marc Bouwer show.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

New York Post

One of his best in years and one of the most spirited in this otherwise muted (so far) Fashion Week.

New York Times

...the clothes are very good: light, romantic, strange....If only more designers could convince us they actually thought about how young women dress, there might then be more shows of this relevance.

Style

A collection like this doesn't need a strong message, it needs great items, and there were plenty here. Still, it left you wishing for a little of the focus and intensity he brings to his main line.

Men’s Style

The boys were just like the earnest young men who enlisted to honorably serve their country in decades past then came home to activate for peace.

British Vogue

Usually expected to be the place he lets his grungier tendencies loose, the Marc catwalk yesterday was simply a line-up of beautiful translations of the latest trends that girls all over the world will be dying to wear next summer.

WWD (paid subscription)

Though piling on was the order of the day at the designer's main line, Marc by Marc Jacobs displayed a savvy paring down, a shift from fall's brooding art student attitude.

Marc Jacobs

ABC News

And sure enough, a few days later, we're convinced it's the most brilliant collection we've ever seen.

British Vogue

There was so much to see— sometimes the models emulated the very chicest of bag ladies, so swathed were they in ideas, but paired down piece-by-piece the show reads like a ready-made wish-list…

Fashion Wire Daily

And, even if it did not take quite as many creative risks as last season’s survivalist chic show by the same designer it surely confirms Jacobs as the most important America designer, hang it all, pretty well ever.

International Herald Tribune

This show had a poetic vision, showing how graciously the designer has allowed his iconic girl-woman to grow up.

Lookonline.com

Slouchy layering, light and airy movement, it was pure Marc Jacobs and it was brilliant.

New York Post

All of this was spiked with clusters of jewels-on headpieces, shoes, bags-which gave the entire collection a feel of genuine, off-kilter beauty.

Papermag.com

… We sensed heavy homages yet Marc brought his own ingenue fingertips to translating it all into a true Marc Jacobs show.

Style

Was there substance beneath the whimsy? Many of these clothes—the Arabian Nights harem pants, for example, or the tulip pants that he showed unbuttoned up the side—will be a hard sell. On the other hand, the trio of understated-by-comparison T-shirt dresses and the bags—metallic leathers and exotic skins studded with crystals as big as the bulbs on an old Times Square marquee—should keep the faithful happy.

Telegraph

The whole effect really unfolded as a modern fairy tale-this was truly, truly a moment of fashion magic.

Washington Post

…a red sequined polo paired with linen shorts that looked like a full skirt split in half certainly was fashion-forward—something the crowd has come to expect from Jacobs.

WWD

It exemplified very clearly the influence of 10 years in paris on Jacobs’ American roots, his natural audacity and wit refined and bolstered by the French sophistication and obsession with creativity.

Marchesa

Style

It was surprising to note that hems were sometimes unfinished and a few seams left undone—lapses that are hard to overlook at these price points. Still, the palette—white, black, and hot pink—and all those roses were perfectly in keeping with spring's romantic mood.

British Vogue

A dazzling spectrum of headline-grabbers in black, white, pink and lime - all of which we can guarantee you'll be seeing again whenever the A-list has a party to go to.

Telegraph

These were definitely not clothes to go to the supermarket in.

WWD (paid subscriptions)

The designers simply aimed too high, from dresses done with Eighties-era oomph to grandiose gowns.

Mary Ping

Fashion Wire Daily

The design remains simple to the point where one might call them plain, but her mastery of draping and manipulation of geometry forbids it.

Matthew Williamson

Style

Williamson showed a wildly over-the-top collection for a girl on permanent vacation in Ibiza...In the right time and place—i.e. at 4 a.m. on the dance floor at Pacha—some of it could work, the lily pad-print sleeveless minidress, for example. But at 4 o'clock in the afternoon in a West Side ferry terminal quite a few of these pieces looked garish.

Max Azria

British Vogue

It wasn't all red carpet glitz and paparazzi-worthy party frocks on the catwalk—in fact, quite the opposite.

Fashion Wire Daily

With a little more fine-tuning of the silhouette, Azria’s namesake collection will hopefully be able to stand on its own.

Style

[The collection] is meant to be a place where the company's creative forces can "let their artistic voices be heard." But it's not yet entirely clear what they're trying to say. The clothes often rely on origami-style construction, which lends them a vaguely Japanese feeling.

WWD (paid subscription)

And while the textural burlaps, linens and gauzes gave everything a fresh, organic feel, the duo hit just shy of the refined mark.

McQ

  • Bio
  • Collection
WWD (paid subscription)

But while the look was light-hearted, and while McQueen may have taken inspiration from scary carnival clowns, the clothes were utterly wearable- and plenty cool, too.

Michael Kors

New York Times

Nothing wrong with the clothes, per se, but they don’t get your motor going.

Style

With all the leggings and crimped updos and even an off-the-shoulder Flashdance sweater or two, Kors was having a real eighties moment. It was fun while it lasted, but somehow out of step with his usual polished sense of chic.

WWD (paid subscription)

Naturally, he picked up on the traditional taupe-black-gray palette throughout, covering a lot of neutral ground in a show that could have used a little editing.

Michon Schur

Style

Her subtle, self-assured spring collection offered plenty for a young red-carpet regular to like, from a brief A-line shift with this season’s lantern sleeves to an easy, floor-length silk Jacquard dress in the color of the moment, navy.

Miss Sixty

  • Bio
  • Collection
Paper

it was styled in a cute and fun way that reflects the Miss Sixty customer: a cute, fun, international girl.

N

Naeem Khan

Fashion Wire Daily

Fussy Fussy frills, garish beading, and an erratic color palette made Naeem Khan’s Spring 2007 collection presentation on Sunday, September 10th a hard one to swallow.

Narciso Rodriguez

British Vogue

We love him for his straight-down-the-line elegance –so much so that just a touch of embellishment on the hip was breaking news...

New York Post

Narciso Rodriguez made a significant departure this season from his now established classics with an ode to Blondie, Edie Sedgwick, Andy Warhol and the Soho art scene of the ‘80’s.

New York Times

He has an implacable eye; getting a shape or a proportion right will never be his problem. But he lacks the time to refine it, to take a design where it really could go.

Style

Narciso Rodriguez will always be a minimalist at heart. Even when he does embellishments, he can't help but do them in a streamlined way. Still, there was as much adornment as you're likely to see on a Rodriguez runway here.

WWD (paid subscription)

Some of Rodriguez's attempts at strong color just didn't read as expensive, and with its too-forced geometry, his tailoring looked both austere and tricky.

Naeem Khan

Fashion Wire Daily

Fussy Fussy frills, garish beading, and an erratic color palette made Naeem Khan’s Spring 2007 collection presentation on Sunday, September 10th a hard one to swallow.

Nanette Lepore

Fashion Wire Daily

There was nothing groundbreaking about Lepore’s spring collection, just fun, feminine frocks that are guaranteed to make a woman feel like a woman - who is in no rush to grow up.

Nicole Miller

WWD

No one studies ancient civilizations quite like Nicole Miller, and this time, she mined the riches of the Mayans.

Fashion Wire Daily

Miller created a Central American chic motif that had everyone channeling their inner Mayan princess.

O

Oscar de la Renta

Fashion Wire Daily

Oscar de la Renta showed a master class in style, editing, and silhouette.

British Vogue

The collection itself was as self-assured and confident as we've come to expect from the 72-year-old designer. Classic de la Renta shapes, those stiff raw silk bubble hems and fishtail dresses for example, were updated in eye-catching brilliant colours.

International Herald Tribune

Modern touches such as rounded hems, pointed toe flat shoes and big bouffant hair identified the Oscar de la Renta Woman.

New York Post

The quietest pieces spoke the loudest.

Style

This collection wasn't wallflower material; bold, oversize prints shared the runway with saturated colors like azure, cherry, and marigold. What looked fresh for evening were his navy dresses.

The London Telegraph

The clothes had a joyous, youthful spirit and, looked not a whit out of place on the teenagers and early twenty-somethings modeling them on the catwalk.

WWD

This outing radiated bravado.

P

Pamella Roland

  • Bio
  • Collection
Fashiontribes

Dip-dyed chiffon never looked so upmarket, atop full skirts, ruched into strapless bodices, and rendered as an ombre design on a tea dress.

Perry Ellis

Coutorture

Simple, clean, and classy. A nice range of casual comfort and handsome formality that epitomizes Perry.

Peter Som

Style

He presented a collection that, while it took few risks, was full of pretty but not overdone confections that should be right up his well-heeled customer's avenue.

WWD (paid subscription)

In the group of young American designers working the pretty motif, Peter Som is one of the deftest.

Ports 1961

WWD (paid subscription)

And if her earthy layers and raw-edged shapes sometimes veered toward Marni land, she is well en route to refining a distinct, appealing alternative to all that generic pretty-girl dressing out there.

Phillip Lim

Style

More so than most young designers working today, Lim knows how fashionable women want to dress.

International Herald Tribune

Bell-shaped skirts and pristine white fabrics with a touch of floral voile. It made for a pretty collection that showed the new respectful attitude toward women.

New York Times

Mr. Lim has an uncanny ability to tell a variety of stories with the same motif.

WWD (paid subscription)

Phillip Lim sent out a beauty of a spring collection, full of optimism and grace, as seen in his series of angelic dresses accented with lovely hand-sculpted rosettes.

Proenza Schouler

Almostgirl

Nothing felt like spring, ankle boots are not appropriate for May, and most of it just felt far too now and not enough “what you will be wearing.”

British Vogue

When a label finds a signature something that its fans can hold on to, the trick is to keep reinventing it to keep it fresh, while managing to keep the original magic alive. That's just what Proenza Schouler did on the catwalk…

Fashion Wire Daily

Not the easiest of looks but a great statement.

New York Times

Taken apart, the pieces in this collection demonstrated that Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez are more in tune with the spirit of American sportswear for young people than designers who have been around twice as long.

Style

Proenza Schouler combined Hervé Léger and OP surfwear for not as unlikely a pairing as it sounds.

WWD

The duo softened their recurring hard edge with a little humor.

R

Rachel Roy

Fashion Wire Daily

While we applaud Roy's intentions, it is hard to imagine many working women tossing on a spangled open back minidress.

rag & bone

British Vogue

…there is more to life than denim and they have clearly enjoyed widening their repertoire…

Style

Brits David Neville and Marcus Wainwright did show cool stovepipe jeans with equally slim seamed blazers to match. Pinafore dresses in gauze and silk charmeuse, though, are newer territory for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists.

Men’s Style

If denim is still their main dish, they’re perfecting the seasoning.

Fashion Wire Daily

A slew of super skinny jeans in white, indigo and light grey, lending the overall collection a dose of their signature punk-rock appeal.

Almostgirl

Rag and Bone showed the exact collection one imagines to be the aesthetic of the downtown beautiful layabouts: casual, understated, and above all, never trying too hard.

Reem Acra

Fashion Wire Daily

Acra ended her show on a high note with a dashing jersey and tulle gown, and given the plethora of divine dresses that graced her runway, actresses have plenty of options come Oscar season.

Richard Chai

Style

Chai said his goal with this collection was to "make artfully crafted, special pieces that can be worn casually," and for the most part, he succeeded.

WWD (paid subscription)

In short-exactly what most women look for when they shop for designer clothes.

Rock & Republic

Fashion Wire Daily

From the hype to the fashion, to the crowd, to the tunes, last night's show brought just what New Yorker's needed: a little R&R.

Rodarte

Style

a collection that might not have looked out of place in a classic Irving Penn spread, but what of its position in the modern world?

WWD (paid subscription)

Wearability was secondary here, replaced by the idea of dressing for a very big, very grand event.

Rosa Cha

Papierblog

The collection was 95% swimwear and was inspired by French incursions into colonial Brazil.

Ruffian

Fashion Wire Daily

Ruffian's latest collection opted for a younger, more vibrant look that was right on mark for spring.

New York Times

Brian Wolk and Claude Morais's collection, inspired by American architecture was minimalist and polished.

Style

Without losing too much of their signature vocabulary-they injected a welcome dose of hip into their spring proceedings.

ZOOZOOM

Ruffian presented a collection filled with long silhouettes, broad shoulders, and bright bursts of color…The collection displayed a true intellect.

S

Sabyasachi

Fashion Wire Daily

Presenting a visually distinct collection, the 30-something Sabyasachi received praise and applause from a standing room only crowd on Saturday….He combines prints, silhouettes, and an Indian workmanship in a way that keeps runway watchers doing a double-take.

Style

His selection of silhouettes was limited, but his bubbles and trapezes felt right for the season, as did plaid and embroidery.

ZOOZOOM

Sabyasachi: a fresh perspective on the possibilities of integrating beautiful imagery into what we choose to wear.

Sari Gueron

Style

Though the separates stood on their own, the audience still comes to see the frocks.

Fashion Wire Daily

Sari Gueron remained polished and demure while slightly bohemian.

Sass & Bide

International Herald Tribune

Ancient Egypt as viewed during the Art Deco mood of the twenties and mixing it with an eighties vibe was the inspiration behind this Australian duo's collection.

Fashion Wire Daily

Sass & Bide intertwined Art Deco and 1980s post-disco funk.

ZOOZOOM

Sass & Bide was all groovy-elegant, modern, and sexy.

T

Thakoon

Style

Kimono shapes popped up throughout the mostly floral collection, adding variety to an accomplished, pretty, but somewhat one-note show.

British Vogue

Thakoon himself on the cusp of hitting the big time, at very least snagging the biggest applause of the week so far.

WWD (paid subscription)

Wearability was secondary here, replaced by the idea of dressing for a very big, very grand event.

Thom Browne

Men’s Style

Call it a magnificent obsession, if you like, but there's no one else whose brooding over the mysteries of masculinity is producing clothes like this.

Tracy Reese

AP

With this collection, though, Reese proved that ladylike doesn't have to mean stiff.

Fashion Wire Daily

Along with a new handbag collection, the Reese spirit came down the runway literally with a stylized couple that did the tango and introduced the audience to show themes that were stacked like a dance card: the Tango, Samba and Barrio.

New York Times

Ms. Reese sent out polished sportswear with rather predictable luxury effects….Ms. Reese believes in making joyful feminine clothes but some of the natural charm gets lost in the upgrading.

WWD

With a tango in her heart -and a couple of twirling dancers on the runway-Tracy Reese channeled the suave, sultry side of South America for spring.

ZOOZOOM

A cornucopia of goodies that would comfort any style maven.

Toni Maticevski

Style

The show was uneven-but there was promise here.

ZOOZOOM

A soft, subdued collection full of romanticism and femininity.

TSE

Style

It was hard to see the more "designed" pieces that she sent out—like the heavy-knit "exaggerated" pants with crotches that fell inches above the ankle—as having much of a life off the runway. On the other hand, the classics and variations thereof—a linen coat, rethought cable knits—looked just right.

WWD (paid subscription)

Giberson is interested in selling clothes that women wear and keep, and with all of that in mind, she spun a subtly avant-garde collection that played with exaggerated proportions.

Tuleh

Fashion Wire Daily

Tuleh's Bryan Bradley doesn’t follow trends and steadfastly stays true to his own vision, and his Spring 2007 collection shown on Sunday, September 10th in Bryant Park was no exception….Decked out in these clothes, the Tuleh woman will turn everyone else around into spectators—just try and take your eyes off her.

New York Times

Bryan Bradley, the designer of Tuleh, made some effort to inject deviant wit into his collection….Continuing the vaguely film noir style of last season, Mr. Bradley offered beautiful tailored blouses with belled or fluttery sleeves, wide trousers and suits in linen and bias-cut plaid with long belted jackets that looked handsome and relaxed.

Style

This was one of Bradley's safer collections, and it should be a buyer's dream with its well-made separates, smart blouses, perfect pants, and tailored jackets.

WWD

This collection was able to create a mood while each look stood so independently.

ZOOZOOM

A New York society girl’s dream…Color, vibrant floral prints and rich fabrics all contributed to a collection full of perfectly polished looks.

U

United Bamboo

Style

To a soundtrack by Panda Bear the designers reprised fall's strong volumes, but in softer, more languid fabrics.

Fashion Wire Daily

Aoki and Pham once again did what they do best: they look to fashionable youth of the past and redefine and reshape it through their work.

V

Venexiana

  • Bio
  • Collection
Papierblog

It catered to Venexiana’s audience—a conglomeration of drag queens, eccentrics, and even the marginally famous fake Paris Hilton, who somehow managed to get a seat in the front row—who all rely on Venexiana for attention-seeking designs whose details are surprising.

Verrier

Coutorture

Sophisticated and feminine, but glitzy, with some very trendy shoes.

Fashion Wire Daily

Verrier's run of the mill collection presentation was an unfortunate testament that even the most talented of new designers aren't spared from the sophomore show slump.

VPL

Style

Spring saw her dive deeper into ready-to-wear, with a collection that was inspired by water.

Fashion Wire Daily

Parading around the boat buoys that lined the catwalk, models showcased thin, silk-cotton "waterfall" dresses that literally seemed to ripple with movement.

Y

Yigal Azrouel

Style

Yigal Azrouel has redefined his aesthetic, jettisoning the too-proper occasion wear of yore and developing a feel for day dressing.

ZooZoom

The collection takes the trends women feel comfortable in and makes them grow up a little with subtle nuance.

Z

Zero Maria Cornejo

New York Times

An underappreciated designer who works a shape to the point of monotony, somehow finds something new to say.

Style

It took a moment for the eye to adjust to the new proportion, but it's those intriguing details that give Cornejo's clothes their appeal.

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