Attaboy

There’s no sign — well, just a discreet “AB” on the metal door — and the window suggests that the space is a turn-of-the-century tailor shop. But when you ring the doorbell at 134 Eldridge, you’re greeted by a smile and a question about how many are in your party. You might get seated right away, or — especially if it’s a bit later on a weekend — give your phone number and wait for space to open up. The bar was once Milk & Honey, opened by the legendary late Sasha Petraske in 1999. Since 2012, though, it’s been Attaboy, renovated and owned by two M&H alumni, Sam Ross and Michael McIlroy (Ross created the ginger-y Penicillin, one of the greatest new classics in mixology). The lights in the narrow space are, of course, low; the music is purely atmospheric until some obscure hip-hop sample perks up your ears; and the affable bartenders sport that ur-mixologist look that’s both twee and tough. There’s no menu, so you let them know what you’re in the mood for. Suggest a spirit — rum, say — and they’ll ask whether you want it light and citrusy or “a bit stiffer.” A stiff rum drink could be the Chet Baker, made with sweet vermouth, Angostura bitters, and honey with an expressed orange peel as its garnish. The sweet and bitter will be perfectly in balance, as these guys know what they’re doing — they’re of quite a storied lineage, after all. The drinks are a bit pricey and it’s a tourist draw, but it’s a standard-bearer.