New York is lousy with world-class cocktail joints, boutique beer bars, and familial Celtic pubs. It’s rare, however, to find all three under one roof. This Fidi saloon from Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry functions as a kind of new-school, tipsy exaltation to Gotham’s legacy of Irish immigrants. Downstairs, in a sawdust-scattered taproom hung with murals of the 69th Regiment, bartenders pour ales like Green Flash West Coast IPA and glugs of native whiskey (Connemara, Tullamore Dew). Upstairs, McGarry tends to a list of cocktails that may just be among the city’s most ambitious: The rigorously historical menu spans punches, absinthe, nogs, slings, smashes, and more, each dutifully footnoted, thoughtfully prepared, and — most significantly — damn delicious.