No, the grim reaper isn’t a partner at this cozy boîte. The proprietors are David Kaplan and restaurateur Ravi DeRossi. Nevertheless, the cocktails are killer. Martinis are served in five-ounce glasses with the remainder poured into iced carafes to stay chilled; smoky, fragrant Oaxaca old-fashioneds are made from reposado tequila, mezcal, and agave nectar, then finished off with a flamed orange twist. The bar stocks an array of rare, aged brown liquors. Woody, understated classicism may have been the intended look when the owners tucked suede banquettes under black-granite tables lit by crystal chandeliers, but the cocktails and cuisine don’t hew as closely to speakeasy traditions.