It must have taken true vision — or gall — to look at a set of claustrophobic, interconnected rooms and see potential for a bar. But the masterminds behind Hotel Delmano turned each space into a charming, discrete area, and the doorman strictly limits the flow to keep the rooms more warm than suffocating. Sure, with opulent chandeliers, old, smoky mirrors, and an upscale cocktail-centric bar it has all the trappings of any other faux-speakeasy. But from the moment you walk in, there is something refreshingly authentic about this place from the owners of Union Pool. The many old-timey cocktails on the menu help, like the Rattlesnake made with rye, absinthe, and egg whites, or a refreshing concoction of St. Germain and thyme-infused gin, cheekily called the San Francisco Handshake. The staff also plays the part, sporting suspenders and wingtips. You can saddle up to the long, curving marble bar, or take a seat in the back in one of the two cozy rooms with either turquoise or muted red walls adorned with portraits of old, important-looking people. Oysters and a short list of small plates like olives, cheese boards, and pâtés round out the mix.