Weather Up Tribeca

What was somewhat wasted in the now-closed original’s out-of-the-way Prospect Heights location slides into place in Tribeca: gleaming subway tiles, a long bar with built-in stools, dim lighting, and a waitstaff so attractive you at least look twice. The drink list is brief but boozy, with pungent options like the bright, Scotch-based, ginger- and orange-infused White Horse, or the smoother, darker cognac-amaretto combo that is the Weather Up Jr., but good luck cobbling together a meal from the strange and sometimes brilliant bar-bites lineup. You could while away the whole evening here — until you get the bill — which, if it’s even calculated properly (hand-writing things on a calling card is cute but not practical) might induce sticker shock. Just take a cue from the lissome young things around you and act like it doesn’t matter.