Atera

The much-praised, star-bedecked Danish chef Ronny Emborg is more of an overt classicist than his talented, forager-loving predecessor, Matthew Lightner, who had a fondness for plating dinner on river pebbles or beds of moss. Emborg’s speciality is what he calls “sensory” dining, and although it will cost you a small fortune to get a taste of this delicate, artful brand of cooking ($285 the last time we checked), the deft combinations of elemental smells and flavors (birch bark, juniper, a whiff of wood smoke), impeccable ingredients, and first-class continental technique make this discreet, and in many ways, now-seminal Tribeca restaurant one of the best big-money tasting extravaganzas in town.