There may be no such thing as a perfect restaurant, but in the number of modern-day culinary needs it fulfills — and fulfills extraordinarily well — Enrique Olvera’s and Daniela Soto-Innes’s Noho canteen comes close. Part alt-milk coffee shop, part juice bar, part California-style breakfast joint, part serious mezcal bar — and, oh yeah, top-notch Mexican restaurant — it epitomizes a new breed of multitasking all-day cafés. Enfrijoladas or chilaquiles for breakfast will ruin you for bacon and eggs. Brussels sprouts tacos are pure dynamite. The fish Milanese reaches a level of delicate crispness we didn’t think possible. And the chicken-and-rice soup is as soulful as anything ever ladled out of a 2nd Ave Deli pot. As at Olvera’s fancy Flatiron restaurant, Cosme, Mexican food is presented here in a uniquely Olveran way, though no opportunity is lost to highlight the foundations of the cuisine.