Ayada

In the beginning, there was SriPraPhai, a mecca for those craving the aromatic, pungent, frequently torrid flavors of real Thai food. But over the years, the field has grown crowded; Manhattanites trip over fiery larb in their own backyards. Even so, homey Ayada still makes a strong case to visit Queens from any other borough, in the form of its raw-shrimp salad, redolent of lime and garlic; its panang duck curry, with its pinpoint calibration of sweet, sour, and spicy; its crisp, lacy catfish salad; and its mango sticky rice, a dissertation in ripeness. Factor in the ­super-friendly service, the cheerful décor, and maybe a tableside visit from chef Duangjai “Kitty” Thammasat, and you have one of the city’s best Thai restaurants.