Balaboosta

After closing the original, popular Nolita location, Einat Admony has relocated her flagship establishment, Balaboosta, (“perfect housewife” in Yiddish), to the somewhat smaller, more impersonal space on Seventh Avenue which used to house her doomed small plates bar concept “Bar Bolonat.” Those who loved the Nolita spot will find the new operation a little more slapdash and expedient than the original, but the menu highlights remain largely the same: a welter of small plate hummus and tahini options, and inventive plays on the old Middle Eastern/Mediterranean cannon, like grilled octopus with harissa aoli, lamb shank simmered with dates and preserved lemon, and lentil crusted short ribs.