With Da Silvano ignominiously out of the picture, its cheaper, more populist neighbor continues to carry the celebrity-studded sidewalk-dining torch. But more than movie stars and fashion types dine here: The reliably tasty food and rat-a-tat charm of the Italian waitstaff continue to draw loyal locals, curious tourists, and successive generations of urban hipsters to two modest yellow-walled rooms, where the tables are get-to-know-your-neighbors tight. Owner Giovanni Tognozzi is always there, greeting regulars and sipping espresso — except when he’s in Tuscany, stocking up on new-harvest olive oil. Don’t be disappointed by the minimal menu; you’ll be ordering from the specials board the servers lug around like ancient stone tablets. Everything is good; the rabbit is great. Pastas are often creamy and always al dente, and the chocolate-doused panna cotta is a world-beater. Cash only.