Barano

Chef and owner Albert Di Meglio’s knack for fine-tuned flavor and contrast abounds in silky mozzarella, the crunch of his green-market giardiniera, and the simultaneous deployment of both textures in the sheeps’ milk cannoli. That aside, Barano’s best quality may just be its seemingly inbuilt sense of welcoming. The sleek dining room has got legroom to spare, gluten-free options are proffered without a fuss, and each of the three increasingly elaborate tiers of large-party, family-style feast — all featuring a star-making turn of smoky eggplant served Parm style — is a great value.