Beyond Sushi

Vegan sushi calls to mind white rice — or maybe brown — concealing a sad sliver of cucumber or burdock. Nothing like the multihued constructions served up by this burgeoning chainlet, which has carved a niche for itself by transforming the globally inspired contents of latter-day grain bowls into distinctive plant-based rolls. The Mediterranean-themed Chic Pea, for instance, enfolds roasted eggplant, artichoke, and saffron-chickpea purée in nutty black rice, and garnishes it with tahini. It might not be the stuff of Jiro’s dreams, but judging by the packs of famished yoginis regularly storming this location, the New York market is ripe for it.