Birds of a Feather

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80 Good

Great food and a chic setting are intact at this offshoot of midtown’s Café China.

191 Grand St., Brooklyn, NY, 11211

718-969-6800

http://birdsofafeatherny.com/

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The lowdown

Café China is one of the brighter lights in Midtown’s Sichuan belt. Its owners branched out downtown with the Shanghainese China Blue, and now they’ve made their first foray into Brooklyn with this Williamsburg restaurant. The food here is Sichuanese, but the restaurant is less a copy and more of a sequel. While the chic original was inspired by 1930s Shanghai and decorated with vintage design cues, here the brightly lit space looks more like a Blue Bottle, with its blond-wood tables, white paint, and exposed walls. Many of the dishes have been brought over from Manhattan, including Chongqing chicken that’s crunchy and aggressively spicy, sweet-and-sour ribs that are better than any takeout version near you, and tea-smoked duck. But there are also original and sometimes inventive new dishes, like a standout appetizer of okra that’s wrapped in a gently poached, fatty slice of pork.

Chris Crowley

What you need to know

DrinksSake/Soju, Beer & Wine Only