Throughout the course of his illustrious career, Daniel Boulud has taken an impish pleasure in breaking down tired old culinary formulas and reimagining them in all sorts of distinctive and entertaining ways. Boulud Sud is fronted on Broadway by a glimmering new “épicerie” parlor, which sells coffees, classic (and, of course, pricey) French pastries, and freshly made sandwiches. The dining room has a high, multi-arched ceiling, like in a small modernist museum, and the blond-paneled walls are decorated with bright sun-splashed photographs inspired by famous Provençal paintings by Van Gogh, Matisse, and Cézanne. Boulud’s knack for breathing new life into aged culinary formulas is on display in both the “To Share” subsection and entrées, although this being Mediterranean food, his most satisfying experiments tend to involve seafood or lamb. Boulud Sud is subject to the rhythms of its neighborhood, which means that the tables tend to empty out before curtain time and then slowly fill back up again, as the evening progresses, with an assortment of Euro tourists and slightly antique-looking Boulud regulars from across the park.