Geodes form in small spaces. They often appear as ordinary rocks, yet, broken open, reveal true beauty. The neighborhood Italian restaurants that dot the Upper West Side — Bettolona, Pizzeria Sirenetta, Bella Luna, to name a few — are geodic in this regard, perhaps none more so than Celeste. For over ten years, the unfussy Neapolitan spot has been presided over by owner Carmine Mitroni, a man as incandescent as a chandelier. Anything that comes out of the fryer is golden: carciofi, fritto misto, ricotta balls. In a pizza-mad city, these pies rival anything eaten in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. And the tables, though hard to come by, turn often.