Coco Pazzo

Unlike the original, this Soho reboot of Pino Luongo’s ‘90s-era megahit has a takeout annex dispensing lunchtime soups, salads, and sandwiches, all of which can also be ordered in the full-service dining room. The trattoria dinner menu hews to classic dishes like seafood antipasti, and grilled rib eyes with Tuscan fries served family style. There’s also a new Luongo-ian menu category called piatto unico, one-dish meals that unite — Italophile purists avert your eyes — a pasta and a hunk of meat or seafood on the same plate. There’s pappardelle with stracotto (braised beef brisket), orecchiette with grilled octopus, rigatoni with chicken meatballs, and bucatini with whole grilled sardines in a sort of deconstructed pasta con le sarde. If these blue-plate specials of sorts seem at odds with the whole expansive, leisurely paced idea of Italian cuisine, Luongo insists that it’s how he ate growing up in Tuscany, and if it was good enough for young Pino, then presumably, it’s good enough for Soho.