Since it opened in 2011, Colonie has served a seasonal, often local, American menu with Italian influences that allows simple vegetable dishes, homemade pastas, and fresh seafood to shine. (Try the excellent fazzoletti, which showcases the latter two, mixing sheets of fresh pasta with bits of blue crab and burrata, and heat from serrano chiles to keep it from feeling heavy.) On the drinks side, there’s the requisite trifecta of natural wines, local beers, and creative house cocktails, all of which are well-curated. The space is lovely and relaxing, with brick walls, dark plank ceilings, large front windows overlooking the sleepy end of Atlantic Avenue, and a leafy garden wall in the area dividing the front bar from the dining room and open kitchen. The net effect is interesting enough to keep the area’s young professional crowd coming back, and inviting enough to fit into the neighborhood landscape for years to come.