Crown Shy

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86 Very Good

Former Eleven Madison Park chef de cuisine James Kent’s finely honed, seasonal cooking is a welcome sight in the culinary no-man’s-land of Fidi.

70 Pine St., New York, NY, 10005


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The lowdown

Wall Street has been a graveyard for culinary dreams for decades now, but thanks to James Kent and Jeff Katz, both veterans of shipshape restaurants elsewhere in town, the dark days may finally be over. In the great post-gourmet tradition, the menu of this deceptively sophisticated restaurant down on Pine Street is stocked with fresh-baked breads (the “pull-apart” roll), inspired vegetable creations (romaine salad, charred carrots), and elevated barnyard dishes (the chicken, the short ribs), but pay special attention to the artful, comfort-oriented desserts, like orange-and-honey-flavored ice cream, and a fine version of sticky-toffee pudding served with spoonfuls of Chantilly cream.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Recommended DishesWhite-bean hummus with poori, romaine salad and/or charred carrots, caramelle pasta, chicken, short rib or lamb prime rib, sticky-toffee pudding, ice cream.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized