Crown Shy

Wall Street has been a graveyard for culinary dreams for decades now, but thanks to James Kent and Jeff Katz, both veterans of shipshape restaurants elsewhere in town, the dark days may finally be over. In the great post-gourmet tradition, the menu of this deceptively sophisticated restaurant down on Pine Street is stocked with fresh-baked breads (the “pull-apart” roll), inspired vegetable creations (romaine salad, charred carrots), and elevated barnyard dishes (the chicken, the short ribs), but pay special attention to the artful, comfort-oriented desserts, like orange-and-honey-flavored ice cream, and a fine version of sticky-toffee pudding served with spoonfuls of Chantilly cream.