Dirt Candy

How refreshing to be in a restaurant where the chef is declining to scream openly at employees; where the staff are paid fairly; where no meat is served and the vegetable-focused dishes are careful, complex, and delicious, but not overly science-y (e.g., Korean fried broccoli with garlic-sesame sauce); where the service is friendly and practiced; where the black-, red-, and white-accented room is bright and airy, with flowers painted on the white brick walls; and where the prices are relatively affordable — a dinnertime five-course tasting with wine pairings is $102, inclusive of tip. If you don’t want to do a set-course meal, go at brunch, when reservations are easier and the à la carte menu includes stunners like jam-filled red-pepper fritters and zucchini pancakes with squash-blossom butter.