Donovan’s Pub

Queens is slowly evolving, Woodside even more slowly. Donovan’s Pub is not changing at all, and that’s the way its fiercely loyal patrons like it. A welcoming, sometimes boisterous Irish tavern has commandeered this corner as far back as locals can remember, and it has been known as Donovan’s since 1966. Behind the beer-centric bar is a Celtic labyrinth of rooms with tall dark-wood booths, stained-glass windows, and fireplaces. Waitresses wear brogues. But Donovan’s is more than an archetypal pub for old-school types. It serves juicy, flavorful, char-broiled half-pounders, with home-cut steak fries. The rest of the menu can’t hope to compete, though the crab cakes — a chunky pan-sautéed pair — make a satisfying pre-burger shared starter for demanding appetites. At some bars, everyone knows your name. At Donovan’s, everyone knows what to order.