Of the many persuasive clues that East Wind isn’t your standard-issue dumpling shack, the 28-day, dry-aged-beef pot stickers rank highest. The innards are rich and funky, and the golden-seared wrapper housemade, like all the rest of chef Chris Cheung’s markedly fresh, springy, and steamy buns and baos, filled with everything from Niman Ranch pork belly (in the Gwaco) to a hidden dab of foie gras. With its counter stools and bubble teas, the snug storefront has a vintage-luncheonette vibe and an entirely modern culinary sensibility. Shanghai vegetable dumplings, splash-seared in Shaoxing wine, also pack a textural punch with crunchy sesame seeds. Its “incredible har gow” are unlike any other version you’ll see around town: seasoned with ginger, dressed with abalone sauce, and given a crunchy, completely unexpected — but much appreciated — crust. Oh, and they’re also available gluten-free.