A good argument could be made that the restaurant’s succulent raison d’être, its lobster roll, exceeds any “roll” model in the city. The lobster is fresh and plentiful; the tiny, barely split bun little more than a garnish. Although French fries here are among the city’s best, there’s little else on the menu to brag about. Even oysters can arrive carelessly askew, their precious liquor spilled into the ice. But if you’re looking for lobster, you’re in the right place. Just be prepared to wait. Ed’s is always busy, and they don’t take reservations.