Emmy Squared

All due respect to the great L&B Spumoni Gardens, Di Fara Pizza, Prince Street Pizza, and their comrades in the Sicilian slice, but maybe there’s more to square pizza than New Yorkers think. That’s the case made by Emmy Squared, which specializes in Detroit-style pizza. Baked in pans, it has a crispy cheese edge and a crust that’s golden and crunchy on the bottom but with a focaccia-like airy, buttery interior. The Roni Supreme is a solid rendition of the pepperoni pie, with the sausage curling up into cups, and the Hatchback has an has a delicious mix of Hatch chilies, chorizo, and crema. Along with the pies, there are a handful of appetizers including tasty okonomi waffle fries topped with dancing flakes of bonito, mayo, and a key surprise of barbecue sauce. Of course, there’s a burger in the Le Big Matt, made with double-stacked patties, each blanketed in cheese, pickles, and a smear of “Sammy sauce” that’s all too big for its britches. It’s perfectly messy, juicy, and a fitting follow-up to the lusted-after Emmy Burger. But the sandwich to get is the chicken parm: The crust is craggy and not overly bready, the cheese adheres like it’s holding on for dear life, and the chunky tomato sauce brightens it up just enough.