Enoteca on Court

A gargantuan wood-burning oven is paired with an international wine list to match. There are 17 pizzas, including a classic Sicilian pie, but it’s really a chance to let the old-world trappings be a safety net for some culinary derring-do. Try the brick-oven octopus over paprika lemon potatoes, or bites of imported Minorcan cheese. But brace yourself for the Volcano: a calzone stuffed with mozzarella, ricotta, and spicy soppressata, which is then adorned with a large brim of pizza that itself is topped with mozzarella, nduja sausage, olives, and tomato. How is there no word in Italian for doozy? With a largely traditional menu in a modern setting, Enoteca on Court may be the kind of restaurant that brings the neighborhood’s old and new residents together.