Fausto

While this replacement for much-beloved Franny’s has retained the wood-fired oven, the rest of the space has been updated in sleek, mid-century-modern fashion, with Hoffmann side chairs and beautiful wood paneling, and it’s clear from the moment you walk in that the two L’Artusi alums who’ve launched this venture sweat the details. The food certainly lives up to the setting, with a braised pork shank so tender that it practically melts in your mouth; and the delicate rice balls with quadrello di bufala cheese are a revelation if you’re used to the heavy red-sauce-joint version. Everything about this restaurant, from the expert bartenders to the attentive service to the well-curated wine list, seems to fire on all cylinders, and if you’re willing to spend a little, it’s one of the best dining experiences you can have in any borough.