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83 Very Good

The former chef of Le Turtle keeps farm-to-table casual and creative.

4 W. 29th St., New York, NY, 10001



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The lowdown

At this snug, satisfying, oddly named, gastropub style hotel restaurant in Nomad, the towering, talented former chef at Le Turtle, Greg Proechel, experiments with all sorts of culinary categories and styles. Lately he’s been in an Asian mood, serving up little teatime-sized Japanese “sandos” filled with ibérico pork cutlets, along with squares of fried lobster toast, to go with bistro creations like boozy spoonfuls of chicken-liver mousse (designed to be scooped up with light curls of pork crackling), and the royally plated house 60-day-aged côte de boeuf. Dedicated boozers will find plenty of things to explore in the bar program, and many of the desserts (call for the yuzu frozen yogurt if it’s on the menu) are executed with a surprisingly light touch.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized