Fragole

In a community split between entrenched Italian families and gentrifying youngsters who merely want to vacation in Italy, Fragole doesn’t really suit either demo. It’s a newcomer, but it’s not nouveau. You won’t find the old guard sipping their cappuccinos here, but neither will you see large groups of scenesters straying from Smith Street for the night. It isn’t the place you take out-of-town guests to wow them, but it is the place you take yourself for really good home cooking when you don’t feel like cooking at home. The Italian menu is simple, affordable, and pasta-focused, but everything is executed precisely: nothing over-sauced, over-cheesed, or overdone. The homemade pappardelle is cooked al dente and tossed with a slightly sweet shortrib ragù, while the beef lasagna comes out piping hot in a mini-cast-iron skillet. A straightforward salad of mixed greens, grilled peppers, and artichoke hearts distinguishes itself thanks to the obvious freshness of the mozzarella. The dining room is roomy enough to handle groups and there’s rarely a wait, so Fragole is always ready for a just-can’t-cook-tonight walk-in.