Frankel’s Delicatessen & Appetizing

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84 Very Good

A love letter to old-school New York Jewish delicatessens and appetizing shops.

631 Manhattan Ave., New York, NY, 11222


Known For

The lowdown

It would be easy to write off this combination delicatessen and appetizing shop as a bandwagon-jumping, hipster-­infested exploitation of a current food-nostalgia trend. But, truth be told, we’re downright impressed. The young brothers Frankel seem to take their ancestral cuisine (Zabarsian, a.k.a. Upper West Side Jewish) quite seriously. In a tiny retail space inspired by places like Russ & Daughters, they make a smartly streamlined selection of deli classics from good ingredients. The pastrami, prepared to the brothers’ specifications at a nearby facility under a characteristic veil of deli secrecy, is terrific, and can be had on classic rye or as a fiendish pastrami-egg-and-cheese breakfast sandwich. Even better are homemade items like a savory, almost buttery matzo-ball soup, and a hot brisket that’s sweet and lush and based on a Frankel-family recipe. It’s available on Amy’s challah as a sandwich, or as a platter with latkes and cucumber salad. You can’t go wrong either way.

Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronte

What you need to know

DrinksNo Alcohol

Noise LevelCivilized