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86 Very Good

A tasting-menu restaurant from Flynn McGarry.

116 Forsyth St., New York, NY, 10002

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The lowdown

There are many things to like about Flynn McGarry’s official New York restaurant debut, from the intimate tasting-room layout (diners sit at small tables, instead of the usual formal bar), to the laid-back L.A.-style décor and vibe (flickering low-lit candles, a woodsy color scheme). But mostly what we like is the cooking itself, which veers from a kind of polished Japanese influence (local raw clams over ice, uni sprinkled with pumpkin seeds, diver scallops wrapped in shiso leaf) to some of the best elevated-vegetable creations we tasted all year (truffle-rolled carrots, ash-grilled sunchokes, slow-roasted pumpkin spooned with melted Gruyère), all of which make it difficult to believe that this young, wunderkind cook is still only 19.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized