Hanoi House

Both of the young owners behind this popular East Village restaurant have clearly spent time studying the buzzing food scene in Vietnam, and both are veterans of Stephen Starr’s successful, far-flung hospitality empire (Buddakan, Upland, Le Coucou, etc.), which means they have a feel for the elusive alchemy of comfort, style, and quality that goes into building a popular dining destination in this mysterious, helter-skelter restaurant era. Sadly, the talented former executive chef, John Nguyen, has departed (on less than amicable terms, apparently), but we’re told that two well-trained sous-chefs, and the majority of his recipes remain: The famous, Hanoi-style pho (heavier than the southern variety, with a bone broth simmered for 12 hours at least); the summer rolls stuffed, like on the streets of Hanoi, with loose slabs of fresh-made pork sausage; and that old favorite of the American Vietnamese community, shaking beef, which, before Nguyen’s departure, was worth a special trip.