Is it a bakery masquerading as a breakfast joint disguised as a sandwich shop? Or is it a sophisticated modern American restaurant, serving tweaked comfort-food classics, deft cocktails, and eclectic domestic wines? This spinoff of Philadelphia’s High Street on Market is all of the above, actually, and it even manages to make the multitasking look easy. Now that baker extraordinaire Melissa Weller has joined Ellen Yin and Eli Kulp as partner, she has made her presence known with a roster of real-thing bagels and pastries that combine French technique with a passion for ancient grains (as in the spelt scone) and worldly flavors (a black-sesame kouign-amann, for example). And the savory menu exploits the access to quality carbs with bagel chips in the beet salad, bread crumbs on the pasta and pizza, and drippings-soaked toast under the skillet chicken.