Hunan Slurp

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86 Very Good

Authentic Hunan cooking in the East Village.

112 First Ave., New York, NY, 10009

646-585-9585

https://www.hunanslurp.com/

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The lowdown

The specialty of this accomplished little East Village venture is the kind of delicate, rice noodles favored in the southern parts of China called “mi fen,” which the chef-owner, a young artist named Chao Wang, has presumably been pining for during his time in New York subsisting on containers of carryout food (the website explains he “seeks to cure his homesickness through cooking”). There are ten varieties of mi fen on the menu served in generous clay bowls, and topped with nourishing combinations like chopped chicken thighs with wood-ear mushrooms, carefully arranged fans of tofu and sliced beef, and numerous varieties of barnyard pork. Many of the non-noodle Hunan specialties are also worth a special trip, in particular the milky helpings of fish served in a mingling of pork and bone broths, and the traditional tripe-and-pig-ear-heavy  “Hunan Charcuterie” which is an offal lover’s dissertation on the pleasures of classic, Chinese-style cold smoked meat.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Insider Tips A tallboy or two of Zywiec Polish beer from the bodega across the street is the perfect complement to your spicy noodles.

Recommended DishesSweet-and-sour spare ribs; smashed cold cucumbers and/or Hunan charcuterie; “Fish Fillet” and/or “Hometown Lu Fen” mi fen; whole fish and/or stir-fried chicken.

DrinksB.Y.O.B

Noise LevelCivilized