Hunky Dory

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

Read more about the new ratings
82 Good

A quirky and ambitious all-day café with a kitchen that scrambles eggs as well as its bar mixes cocktails.

747 Franklin Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11238

516-418-2063

https://www.hunkydorybk.com/

Known For

The lowdown

Icarian in its ambition and Promethean in its execution, Hunky Dory is the psychedelic all-day-and-into-the-night wonderland of owner Claire Sprouse and chef Kirstyn Brewer. The space — skylit during the day, with a warm glow after dark — has all the typical signifiers of all-day-ness, but both the cocktail and the kitchen menus belie Hunky Dory’s drive. Brewer is the egg’s best friend since Jacques Pépin. She boils them softly, then soaks them in lapsang souchong. She coddles them and serves them in herb cream. She scrambles them and then, like a Norse warrior, sends them into the afterlife on a brioche pyre with lamb-and-pork sausage, frisée, and curried onion. Nighttime dishes include miso-touched cod tots, a riff on croquetas de bacalao accompanied with mint, and an exciting “Soup!” (punctuation theirs) of pickled mussels, celery-root purée, cubes of green apple, and mustard seeds. Sprouse, a Texan formerly of San Francisco’s ABV, is an evangelist of sustainability in spirits. Thus, the Golden Year, a very good riff on a mai tai, supplants water-hogging orgeat (made with almonds) with Earth-friendly sunflower syrup.

What you need to know

Recommended DishesSoft-scrambled egg sandwich, green egg & ham, cod “tots”.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized