Hunky Dory

Icarian in its ambition and Promethean in its execution, Hunky Dory is the psychedelic all-day-and-into-the-night wonderland of owner Claire Sprouse and chef Kirstyn Brewer. The space — skylit during the day, with a warm glow after dark — has all the typical signifiers of all-day-ness, but both the cocktail and the kitchen menus belie Hunky Dory’s drive. Brewer is the egg’s best friend since Jacques Pépin. She boils them softly, then soaks them in lapsang souchong. She coddles them and serves them in herb cream. She scrambles them and then, like a Norse warrior, sends them into the afterlife on a brioche pyre with lamb-and-pork sausage, frisée, and curried onion. Nighttime dishes include miso-touched cod tots, a riff on croquetas de bacalao accompanied with mint, and an exciting “Soup!” (punctuation theirs) of pickled mussels, celery-root purée, cubes of green apple, and mustard seeds. Sprouse, a Texan formerly of San Francisco’s ABV, is an evangelist of sustainability in spirits. Thus, the Golden Year, a very good riff on a mai tai, supplants water-hogging orgeat (made with almonds) with Earth-friendly sunflower syrup.