Hwa Yuan

If you wish to relive that magical time long, long ago when you tasted your first crispy scallion pancake or that first miraculous bite of sesame noodles, there’s no better venue than this sprawling three-floor Chinatown establishment where the family of the great sesame-noodle pioneer Shorty Tang is reviving deliciously faithful versions of all sorts of durable favorites from the city’s Chinese-food past. There’s tasty helpings of fat, sticky baby-back ribs sweetened with honey; crunchy little stacks of crispy orange beef flavored with bits of orange peel; and a first-rate example of the most magical Chinese dish of all, Peking duck, cooked to order in a giant, state-of-the-art silver oven imported directly from the home country.