Ikinari Steak

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78 Solid

This Japanese chain turns the serious steakhouse experience into a fun (and affordable) fast-food meal.

90 E. 10th St., New York, NY, 10003



Known For

The lowdown

Capitulating to local custom, this proliferating Japanese chainlet no longer requires diners to wolf down their cut-rate beefsteak at standing tables. Now, there is rest for the weary and stools for their backsides. Other defining characteristics remain the same, though: After a host shows you to a station, you place your order for drinks and appetizers, take your number card to the open-kitchen counter, and specify precisely what you want to eat: sirloin, rib eye, or filet mignon; how much of it you want — from 200 to 1,000 grams, priced per gram; and how you’d like it cooked. When your steak arrives on a sizzling platter, you may not mistake it for a 150-day dry-aged Pat LaFrieda côte de boeuf, but the wet-aged meat (choice grade, from Illinois) is surprisingly good, well-seasoned, and nicely grilled with a great beefy taste. The appetizers (plain salads, mugs of beef broth) aren’t much to write home about. The garlic pepper rice, on the other hand, is wonderful: Served on a sizzling platter of its own with bits of beef trimmings, it develops a crust to rival any Korean bibimbap or Persian tahdig.

Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

What you need to know

Insider Tips The chain famously doesn’t offer seats, so be prepared to eat quickly.

DrinksSake/Soju, Beer and Wine

Noise LevelCivilized