Joe & Pat’s is the king of Staten Island pizza. Its pies are the ultimate version of one of the borough’s dominant styles: the thin-crust, vodka-sauced bar pie. Open since 1960, it doesn’t look like much, but the pizza is magnificent. The dough is pounded so it doesn’t get airy, resulting in a crust that’s disappearingly thin and extra crunchy. The vodka sauce is sweet and smooth; pepperoni, curled up in crisp cups, makes the perfect foil. But it’s tantalizing just with mozzarella, which, unlike in a traditional New York slice joint, doesn’t fuse with the sauce; the fresh cheese is applied more sparingly, so the islands of cheese remain distinct and creamy. The Sicilian, too, is at the top of its game — not at all bready and dense, but possessing a pleasantly soft, moist, and chewy crust that’s spread with bright tomato sauce and a reasonable amount of cheese.