With its long communal tables, open kitchen, and minimalist vibe, the 25-seat Jun-Men looks like any other traditional Japanese restaurant. Its take on ramen is anything but. The 20-dish-long menu is anchored by classics like spicy miso ramen, pork-bone ramen, and pork buns, and while these are done perfectly well, they’re not the reason the tables are packed. Rather, it’s the East-meets-West dishes, where the chef draws on his classic French training and experience at restaurants like Catch and Zutto Japanese American Pub, that bring in the crowd. These include delightful creations like fried-chicken buns with jalapeño mayo, BBQ pork buns with a sweet hickory sauce, and Romaine greens with Parmesan, fried garlic, and a yuzu dressing. Umami-packed appetizers like sweet-potato fries, crisp and drenched in a maple-bourbon glaze with miso mayo, and yellowtail ceviche with pickled mango and kimchee just whet your appetite. The star of the menu may just be the uni-mushroom ramen, prepared mazemen style (sans broth) and ingeniously mimicking Italian carbonara by way of pancetta, porcini butter, truffle, and creamy uni.