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84 Very Good

The chefs at Junoon are adept at enlivening the usual curries and tandooris with intricate combinations of flavor and spice.

27 W. 24th St., New York, NY, 10010



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The lowdown

“French service, in the family, ­Indian style,” is how our waitperson (who was French) accurately described the philosophy behind what might be the most successful “gourmet” Indian restaurant in town (since the opening in 2010, the French-centric mandarins at the Michelin Guides have awarded them seven stars in a row). The name means “passion” in Hindi, and although the original chefs who opened the New York branch (yes, there are many other Junoons) are no longer in the kitchen, and the menu has changed over from à la carte to a variety of newfangled tasting options, the inventive quality of the cooking (tandoori baked octopus, “Lamb Roti Wellington,” tandoori lamb chops flavored with honeycrisp apples, the usual pleasant avalanche of freshly baked breads ) has remained mostly unchanged.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized