The steam-table restaurant is what you might call a curry-and-three, named for and in the style of Thailand’s raan khao kaeng restaurants. But the cooking is vivid, varied, and homey in a way that you wouldn’t expect from a steam table. Plus, the turnover is quick, so the dishes don’t wither away. There’s no set menu — just ten or so unmarked dishes with an emphasis on curry — but don’t worry: The kitchen’s batting percentage is pretty close to perfect. You can expect dishes like squid coated in dry spices; sour sausage and eggs; pork with basil; chicken and pork larb; and tom kha gai or chicken, coconut, and galangal soup.